Mark Twain had once, on coming back to New York, made this famous
observation: “It’s not quite what it used to be and it appears decidedly
better than when I was here last.” In true Twain honesty, he had
wondered whether his going away had something to do with this progress
as well.
I went to Addis Ababa last week after a gap of two years. I got
reminded of Twain for understandable reasons. The airport was still an
unholy mess. Large, rustic, disorganised and derelict. Yet, it was
attempting to become the future aviation hub of the region and Africa.
And Ethiopian Airlines does fancy itself. Its branding makes people
believe in its service and promises. A bit like the rest of the country
really. It is, after all, Sub-Saharan Africa’s largest country in
numbers after Nigeria.
A history rich in culture and having a fairly unique status in Africa
of never having been officially a colony does have its perks. By a
sheer bit of diplomatic guile, it is also the host to the African Union
HQ and hence, a natural destination for all African diplomatic efforts.
Ethiopia has etched itself as an African leader, a beacon of hope and
a paragon of virtue. Yet, it’s essentially a fiefdom still; both at a
political level and at a business level. The key sectors remain in the
hands of the government or are restricted (example banking) with
stringent local ownership rules. But this is a proud country with proud
people, albeit with a rather horrible legacy of famine and an even more
horrible legacy of deposing its own monarch and then being ruled by the
junta and its ‘red terror’ for many decades. So why do people love
Ethiopia?
The culture is rich, but not terribly well-marketed or understood.
The people do look marginally different from their African peers but
that’s hardly a big deal. The government is improving, but not overly
private sector friendly. The population needs things, but the purchasing
power is still abysmally low. The need for access to basic goods and
services exists, but non-existent roads and rail roads are a major
obstacle. It does not, unlike its African counterparts, have promises of
large deposits of oil or minerals either.
I thought about this. And I found the answer in the people. As
always, I suppose. A steely determination from the masses to rise, work
and make things happen. An eerie focus around maintaining one’s food and
culture amidst so many influences. A quiet determination in sharing it
with visitors with no specific pride or consciousness around it.
Friendly people who don’t seem to harbour too many grudges about the
world or their ruling elite. Instead hope pervades and optimism rules in
everyone. If patience is a virtue, then the country is perhaps the most
virtuous country.
That is why I remain enamoured with my host Getu’s efforts to park
the car in a busy Addis street exactly between two vehicles to make sure
it was aligned and left space for another car to squeeze in. A
self-imposed discipline to make one’s lot better and to not be unfair to
others in the process. At the breakfast area of the hotel I was staying
in, I felt the buzz of its political muscle as senior diplomats,
including heads of states and their entourage, were discussing and
conclaving around the rather tricky issue of peace in South Sudan.
Not in London, not in New York, neither in Johannesburg. Instead in Addis.
African leaders sitting and speaking to each other in their own
territory without the prying eyes of Western media and more
significantly without the ‘helpful’ hand of global powers. It was a
sight to behold and cheer.
A generation of peace-makers, who till a few years back, were
actually fighting it out in the jungles and killing each other. Now
having given up their camouflage clothing and instead donned suits which
are flashy and uniformly ill-fitting, but reflecting the new pride of
the continent. The penchant for food and alcohol was in evidence too as
those war veterans showed ample gluttony signs at the buffet and at the
well-stocked bar in the evening.
Conspicuous by their absence were the ladies in these groups.
Indicative of the many ills that African society still will have to
confront. Equal rights and human dignity, both need a lot of work. But
the pleasing scene was the politeness and the punctuality with which
these leaders were going about their business, convinced that they could
get things done and done their way. A true signal of self-sufficiency
and the African renaissance perhaps, albeit green shoots of it? It was
winter, which means all of 15 degrees. Yet, the locals were wearing
heavy woolens and the business people I met drove in wearing overcoats.
Illusions may be of some sort of misplaced grandeur, but the message of
dressing up for the role manifested in its exhibitionism.
There are roughly 60 new hotels on the go in Addis with 20-odd built
in the past three years alone. Yet, there are no modern hospitals even
as the medical service croaks and creaks. The university building, a
once-proud edifice, totters both in its physical and faculty strength.
Another little sign of misplaced priorities is the fact that Addis was a
destination and firmly in the corporate and political map of Africa.
The world is keen to engage with and at Addis. So, the future can only
be bright, as long as hubris and nepotism is gently nudged away by
entrepreneurship and rule of law. The city that is home to the African
Union cannot afford to ruin its own backyard.
The people I saw are realists and love their country and believe in
their future. Peaceful, quiet, persevering and ambitious. In my own way
of looking at things, I have come to learn that the way people drive is
often a dead give-away of the national characteristic. A trifle
unscientific maybe, but uncanny in my experienced eyes. And in Addis,
they don’t honk, they don’t overtake recklessly and they don’t rush.
They let things flow and work with the mayhem around them and the
silliness of the traffic cops that would upset many a person from my
part of the world only receives a disdainful stare. And no, I didn’t see
it as a sign of resignation.
Instead, I saw it as a sign of social maturity and an acceptance that
change takes time and patience is a virtue to bring sustainable change.
Let’s hope their leaders, like in so many frontier markets, do not
betray them. The world needs Ethiopia to realise its dream as it’s too
important a nation to fail in that continent.
Source:
http://forbesindia.com/blog/business-strategy/ethiopias-hope-lies-in-its-wonderful-people/